Jim Whittaker

Jim Whittaker

Acting
1929-02-10
Seattle, WA, USA

Biography

James Warren Whittaker was an American climber and mountain guide. On May 1, 1963, he became the first American to reach the summit of Mount Everest as a member of the American Mount Everest Expedition led by Norman Dyhrenfurth, alongside the Sherpa Nawang Gombu, a nephew of Tenzing Norgay. They ran out of oxygen, but managed to reach the summit.

Known For & Full Filmography10 Titles

#1Everest - Blood, Sweat and Tears

Movie - 1993, 2h 15m as related character

8.8 / 10
DocumentaryAdventure

In this documentary first broadcast in 1993, Chris Bonington looks back at the first ever expeditions to conquer Mount Everest and the effect that the achievement of climbing the mountain had on climbing as a whole worldwide.

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#2Americans on Everest

Movie - 1965, 2h 15m as Self

8.8 / 10
DocumentaryAdventure

"In 1963, Swiss climber Norman Dyhrenfurth began 'a little war against a big mountain.' Leading 19 Americans, 32 Sherpas, and 909 porters carrying 27 tons of gear, Dyhrenfurth spearheaded the highly successful 1963 American Mount Everest Expedition for his adopted country. Jim Whittaker, accompanied by Nawang Gombu Sherpa made the first ascent by the Hillary-Tensing route. On May 22, Tom Hornbein and Willi Unsoeld made the first ascent by the unclimbed West Ridge. They descended by the South Col, making the first traverse of Everest. Orson Welles narrates the spectacular record, and the film includes the first ever filmed images from the summit."

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#3Nawang Gombu - Heart of a Tiger

Movie - 2013, 2h 15m as self

8.8 / 10
Documentary

The nephew of Tenzing Norgay, Nawang Gombu was the youngest Sherpa climber on the 1953 Everest expedition carrying supplies above 25000 feet. He went on to become the first man in the world to summit Mt. Everest twice. He stood on the highest point on the planet with Jim Whittaker on the American expedition in 1963 and again on the first successful Indian expedition in 1965. But 'firsts' are only a small part of what makes this man's story extraordinary. A deeply spiritual man all his life, he helped his family and others achieve what had been so hard for him to accomplish. Standing on the shoulders of his famous uncle, he helped lift the status of Sherpas to that of world-class climbers.

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#4Sherpa: The Proving Grounds

Movie - 2002, 2h 15m as Self

8.8 / 10
Documentary

When Tenzing Norgay, a Sherpa, joined Edmund Hillary as the first men to summit Mount Everest in 1953, it alerted the world to the indispensable role of the Sherpas on any Himalayan expeditions. By 1954 the Himalayan Mountaineering Institute (HMI) was founded to marry the high-altitude strengths of the Sherpa with technical climbing skills. The HMI’s arduous training program has been developing mountaineers who play crucial roles in the success of Himalayan ascents. In 1967, HMI’s field director Nawang Gombu, a Sherpa and the first man to summit Everest twice, was charged with training women as well. In Sherpa: the Proving Grounds we follow a team of intrepid young women as they attack the grueling 28-day course.

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#5Dirtbag: The Legend of Fred Beckey

Movie - 2017, 2h 15m as Self

7.8 / 10
Documentary

Fred Beckey is the legendary American "Dirtbag" mountaineer whose name is spoken in hushed tones around campfires. This rebel climber's pioneering ascents and lifestyle form an iconic legacy that continues to inspire generations.

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#6This Is Self Arrest

Movie - 1967, 2h 15m as Narrator

8.8 / 10
Documentary

Instructional film about a mountaineering technique to prevent falling. Narrated by Jim Whittaker, who describes basic self arrest positions, common mistakes and how to prepare for self arrest while climbing or descending. Several climbers demonstrate falls and safety techniques. This film was made on Mt Rainier, above the east side of Nisqually Glacier, in 1967. The film opens with a scene of a climber falling and sliding out of control after losing his ice axe. The narrator describes the basic self arrest position, common mistakes, and how to prepare for self arrest while climbing or descending.

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#7High and Hallowed: Everest 1963

Movie - 2013, 2h 15m as Self

10.0 / 10
AdventureDocumentary

High and Hallowed: Everest 1963 is the deepest story of the greatest Himalayan climb in American mountaineering history. Showcasing the daring and visionary efforts of the 1963 American Mount Everest Expedition, the film examines the sheer commitment, step-by-step struggle and lasting impact of America's first ascent of Mount Everest and the pioneering first ascent of West Ridge by Tom Hornbein and Willi Unsoeld. Five decades later, High and Hallowed returns to Everest to find out if the essence of risk, adventure and the unknown that drew the first Americans to the summit still exists on Everest today.

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#8High Tension

Movie - 2013, 2h 15m as Self

8.0 / 10
DocumentaryDramaAdventure

Ueli Steck (Switzerland), Simone Moro (Italy) and Jon Griffith (GB) are not like 95% of the climbers on Everest: they don't use oxygen, altimeters (improperly called Sherpas), or fixed ropes. In 2013, the trio aims to repeat the arduous Western Spur. The Sherpas have the mission to equip the mountain with fixed ropes on this famous day, up to Camp 3: ropes without which customers of commercial expeditions could not climb Everest. An argument ensued, insults were hurled from both sides. The confrontation at Camp 2 degenerated: a Sherpa water bottle physically attacked the trio of Europeans. Blows and stones were thrown and threats led the trio to flee the mountain. The Réel Rock film crew, which is part of the climbing team, films this chaos without complacency.

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#9Return to Mount Kennedy

Movie - 2018, 2h 15m as Self

8.8 / 10
Documentary

In 1965, Robert Kennedy was the first man to summit Mount Kennedy in the Yukon Territory, named in honor of his late brother. Leading that expedition was Jim Whitaker, the first American to summit Everest and original fulltime employee of REI. 50 years later, Jim’s sons Bob and Leif, along with Christopher Kennedy, decide to climb the mountain again in honor of their fathers’ joint accomplishment and unique friendship. Seattle-based filmmaker Eric Becker’s touching documentary combines archival footage—including several Kennedy home movies—with interviews from Jim himself and those who them best as we follow three sons and the journey literally in their fathers’ footsteps. Eddie Vedder, a personal friend of Bob’s, writes original music for film that tailor shots of the expansive mountain ranges together in this wholesome story.

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#10Pilgrimage to a Mountain Peak

Movie - 1965, 2h 15m as Self

8.8 / 10
DocumentaryAdventure

A documentary about alpinism that takes place on Mount Kennedy. It was produced in 1965 by Hearst Metrotone News. It's part of the series, "Screen News Digest - Camera on the World". It features Robert F. Kennedy, Jim Whittaker, George R. Senner, Dee Molenaar, Bill Prater, Barry Prather and others.

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